Asian Correspondent

The editor at the Asian Correspondent recently got in touch asking if I could write a city guide for Saigon. Here it is...

Ho Chi Minh City - Guide

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam’s largest metropolis, is still affectionately known as Saigon by its native southern citizens. Historically the term Saigon refers to a central part of the city, District One, where habitation was begun by Vietnamese settlers early in the 17^th century. What was once a marshy market crossroads has been transformed into a bustling, enigmatic cauldron of life – a concrete jungle stretching as far as the eye can see where traditional markets and neighbourhood trading still make up the foundation of everyday life, but where modern influences and development is forever encroaching.

What to do if you have 24 hours

A whistle-stop one day tour should focus on getting a feel for this vibrant city. The main attractions are all central and easy to see on foot or by taxi.

Sample the atmosphere - Most of the city is up by 6am, so this a great time for a wander. Pick up a steaming bowl of Pho, the traditional noodle soup breakfast, from any popular street-side stall.

Ben Thanh market - Although ‘touristy’, most definitely an authentic Vietnam market experience.

City Center -, the streets of Le Loi and Dong Khoi are lined with souvenir shops, art galleries and fashion boutiques.

See the Notre-Dame Cathedral, a replica of the Parisian original, set in a picturesque square in the heart of the city.

The municipal Post Office, directly adjacent to the church and a tourist attraction in its own right, constructed by the French a hundred years ago in the Gothic style.

Reunification Palace, a place with much historic significance being the site of the 1975 hand over of power of Southern Vietnam. War rooms in the basement remain untouched with interesting maps pinned on the walls and a network of offices still furnished with equipment.

Best of the Rest

For those wishing to dig a little deeper, there is much than museums and architecture. The city’s Chinese area, known as ‘Cholon’, is a popular half day trip. Sitting in the east of the city, it is resplendent with traditional Chinese trading shops, markets and most of all, temples. The city offers a number of worthwhile museums, the most notorious of which being the War Remnants Museum – not for those with a weak conscience. Others include the Museum of Ho Chi Minh City (Ly Ty Trong), the Fine Arts Museum (very near Ben Thanh Market) and the beautifully situated Museum of Ho Chi Minh, on the banks of the Saigon River.

Hidden Gems

Saigon is a city of hidden gems, the narrow alleyways that make up a maze of urban dwellings, small shops and restaurants are worth exploring on foot, getting off the main thoroughfares.

In a city of such noise and traffic, a green oasis is much sought after – and the residents of HCMC take pride in their parks. One of the best is named ‘Gia Dinh’, a 10 minute ride from the airport. Huge trees, immaculate flower beds and romantic walkways make this one of the best parks in the city. The botanical gardens (also home to Saigon Zoo) is another interesting stroll and a retreat from the heat under various tropical foliage.

Accommodation

The backpacker’s quarter is known by the name of one of its streets, Pham Ngu Lao, but is spread out over the surrounding streets as well. It is home to a vast collection of budget guesthouses and a handful of midrange hotels. Prices here start from $10 per night or less for a single room with a fan, increasing up to $40 per night. Rooms come in all shapes and sizes, and for those traveling with a family there are some real bargains to be had. Mid-range hotels in the area charge from $50-$100 per night and have some facilities available including breakfast.

The city center houses the bulk of the high end hotels, names such as Park Hyatt, Sheraton, Caravelle and InterContinental, as well as Saigon’s more famous colonial era hotels such as The Grand and The Majestic. Prices here starting from $100 at the low end and $200 at the high end for a standard room.

Saigon at night

The city houses a wide variety of cuisine from street food to Spanish Tapas (try Pacharan on Hai Ba Trung), from fine dining to goat stew. Eating really depends on your budget and your desire. Most of the restaurants in the backpacker ghetto have a good combination of Vietnamese and Western items on the menu for a reasonable price - Try Café 333 on De Tham. The ‘best’ (most expensive) eateries are dotted around District 1.

Entertainment wise, there’s the always reliable and atmospheric Irish Bar, Sheridan’s, with live music every Friday night. Later in the evening, move on to Apolocopyse Now, the oldest and most notorious of Saigon’s nightclubs. For an ‘all-nighter’ you’re best heading back over the ‘The Pham’, the backpacker ghetto, where you’ll find plenty of hole-in-the-wall bars open till dawn.

Retail

Almost all shopping centers cater for tourists. The best places to look are in Tax Center (opposite the Rex Hotel, Nguyen Hue St) or Lucky Plaza (also Nguyen Hue). Le Loi street is also a mecca for tourists, popular items including T-Shirts, conical hats, hand carved wooden ornaments, laquerware and art. The art boutiques are plentiful and good value, and most will handle shipping for you as well. Look up and down Le Loi, Nguyen Hue and Dong Khoi streets.

Transport

Ho Chi Minh City has become increasingly accessible over the past ten years. Air Asia has daily flights to and from Bangkok, Kuala Lumpar, Jakarta and Phuket. Tiger Airways flies from Singapore and Perth, whilst JetStar pacific flies directly from Darwin, Australia. Vietnam Airways reaches Melbourne and Sydney. From Europe direct flights are available from Moscow, Paris and Frankfurt, otherwise a connection is needed. Vietnam airways also serves North American routes. The city airport is a 20-30 minute drive from the city center. Be careful especially when departing – the airport location is in the midst of the city’s traffic chaos, not a pretty site during rush hour. Two hour standstills are not unheard of.

Getting around the city is best done by taxi – plentiful and cheap. Stick with the reputable companies such as Mai Linh and Vinasun. Motorbike taxis or ‘xe om’ ply their trade on street corners. Expect to pay roughly 10,000 VND per Km (50 cents).