Feb 19, 2011

The Family

Chi's family is enormous and it never fails to amaze and entertain (if that's the right word) as stories come out of the woodwork and I get more familiar with the countless aunties and uncles, most of whom reside in Cu Chi district.

I want to relate one particular recent drama that is unfolding.

Chi's mother is the eldest of twelve children, but the eldest two (Chi's mum and her sister) were fathered by a different man to the other ten. So, there exists some land in Cu Chi which Chi has explained to me is exclusively family land and can't be sold, and is ancestral land handed down from Chi's great-grandparents, the parents of Chi's grandmothers first husband. Originally the land was very big so Chi tells me, but her great-grandmother, as is the custom, sold large portions of it to divvy up the cash between relatives. Now all that remains is a small 6 meter wide plot, big enough for a cosy house and a garden.

We decided that this lunar year we would try and acquire that land to build a house for Chi's mum to use and eventually live, possibly with her sister who is from the same father too and retires this year (she currently lives in a small apartment on Dien Bien Phu and has two sons, one of whom put their housing certificate in the bank to take out a 500 million dong loan to open a coffee shop which subsequently failed leaving his mother with a massive debt and no way to sell the house...)

Still with me?

So, there were only two people we needed to chase up to get the all clear for the land and start some paperwork. One of those is Chi's great uncle, in other words, the brother of her grandfather, Chi's mum's uncle. He is still alive and well and amazingly living in District 7, although Chi and her mother haven't seem him for years. He was once a wealthy man with more than five houses across Saigon, but had to sell all of them after losing his money in an investment in Cambodia that went wrong. He purposely distanced himself from the family as he got fed up with the useless ways - one of the most useless being Chi's father, a man who year after year gambled away the family motorbike - prompting Chi to ask her mother as she picked her up from school on a bicycle 'Where's our motorbike'. 'Oh your father lost it (again)'. Chi's great uncle gave him a job in his restaurant as a waiter where he worked for some time and encouraged him to get on the straight and narrow and live up to his responsibilities - ultimately it didn't work, and you can read that story here.

The great uncle, whom we called this weekend, was very happy with the idea of us using the land. He seems a kind man who tried to do the right thing. Chi's mum was nervous (much to Chi's annoyance) because back in the day he gave her 2 tael of gold to fix up her house in Binh Thanh (almost the same as the value of the house at the time) because he was sending his mother to live there for a while. Chi's great-grandmother lived in the house until she died, Chi was in Grade 8. Safe to say, he didn't ask for his gold back.

So one down. The next person is the one who holds the paperwork, the great uncle's daughter-in-law. The great uncle's son is already dead, and wasn't a particularly nice piece of work. He bullied half his family, including Chi's mum (whose name is Ho coincidently) to sell land to him on the cheap (including portions of the land in question today) and succeeded, eventually building some kind of factory there. He died suddenly, and the ancestral land remains in his name. His wife now lives in another part of Cu Chi. Her number is not in the little black book and so Chi called other relatives who know of her, and a rumour reached us that she intended to sell it. Sell the ancestral land! That is not cool! Great uncle was distinctly not impressed.

In response over the weekend I've watched in awestruck deference as Ho has invoked hitherto undiscovered powers, mobilising long lost relatives in the Cu Chi area who, like an army of sleeping zombies reawakened from their slumber by a call to arms, have risen and joined the cause. Turns out that one relative, one that is so distant that when asked the specifics I just got a wave of the arms and "He's got the same surname" as a reply, is HEAD of the people's committee in the SAME district as our seemingly stricken land. As we speak, relatives in Cu Chi are preparing a form to submit to the PC there in order to block any sale of this land. We are then arranging a diplomatic convey consisting of great-uncle and Ms Ho to visit the lady who holds the papers, where great-uncle will attempt to gently persuade the certificates to be handed over to the rightful owners. This is preferred to the idea of Ho's sister, Chi's aunt, who wanted to find the lady and confront her. I see handbags flying...not a good idea.

Somehow we knew it wasn't going to be easy...

Feb 6, 2011

TET 2011 Part 2

In typically British fashion I'll start off by making a quip about the weather - bloody stunning it has been over the past couple of weeks. As I remember TET 2010 being the same, steady sunshine and blue skies throughout the day, a perfect temperature reminiscent of a great July summers day back home, and usually a light breeze to go with it. Really couldn't be any better, and it just adds to the glorious atmosphere of the lunar new year.

For many years we had talked about getting a hotel room on the river to get a decent view of the fireworks. I know what you're thinking - what about the atmosphere. Well, I've had Vietnam atmosphere coming out of my ears for a long time, and I like the atmosphere of a 5 star hotel room, a comfy sofa, a chilled glass of wine and crawling into a massive bed after closing the curtains when the show is over too. That's rather than taking an hour and a half to get home after battling through motorbikes and madness in a vain attempt to find a taxi, walking half way to Binh Thanh and having an argument with the other half and returning home exhausted and miserable - the last time we 'savored the special atmosphere' of the fireworks in District 1. So we were booked into the Renaissance Riverside on Ton Duc Thang for the night, and had a riverview room on the 15th floor. Stunning view of the river winding it's way between Districts 2 and 4 and out to District 7 and under the Phu My Bridge.

Thu Thiem

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When I look at Thu Thiem, and knowing the plans underway for it, I can't helping thinking of this comparison between Shanghai today and 20 years ago. I don't expect Thu Thiem to look anything like that, but sure the transformation will be dramatic.

Looking out now at the Saigon Pearl, the Thu Thiem bridge in the foreground.

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Looking at the toll gates reading and waiting on the yet to be opened Thu Thiem/East-West highway, a cruise ship loiters out of town in the distance.

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We exhibited our usual behaviour in a posh hotel - pretending like we usually frequent such places in the lobby whilst checking in, then as soon as the lift doors closed acting like teenagers slapping each other and encouraging our 2 year old, then get in the room, jump up and down on the bed, get excited about the free tea and coffee and soap, rearrange the furniture so the chairs are facing the window, then calm down and get ready to go out. The Riverside is an odd building I feel - packaged in on a small island of land, with no parking available whatsoever and a swimming pool up on the roof with a few sunbeds crammed around it, I find the interior design an incredible waste of space. I have yet to ascertain how you can be a 5 star hotel without any parking.

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Of course from the hotel flower street 'Nguyen Hue' is a two minute walk and was a throng of people, as expected. To be honest I wasn't as impressed as previous years with the display.

Dong Khoi, buzzing with the festive atmosphere.

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So, after eating dinner we wasted some time sat on the steps of the opera house. Suddenly a parade came marching down Dong Khoi and stopped directly outside to give us a show. Typically Vietnam - no warning, nobody to redirect traffic - if you were on Dong Khoi behind this then tough, you wait till they finish. Consisting of a dragon dancing group and two brass bands, the three musical ensembles stood with 50 meters separating them and playing as loud as they possibly could, at the same time. Nobody seemed to mind.

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11.45pm, Ton Duc Thang

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A great view of the fireworks, the cheers and applause audible from the street below. Following morning we skipped the generous offer a $19 per person breakfast from the hotel and headed to a Pho restaurant very much open and doing a roaring trade on Vo Van Tan, D3. Then, a short drive to Tao Dan park. Tao Dan was abuzz with activity as people enjoyed New Years Day. Live music, stunning floral displays and various stalls and other things on offer.

Year of the Cat

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Hung King temple in Tao Dan park

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A big, long flowery dragon.

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The dragon stops its perilous dance atop the stilts to gobble up lucky money from children, awed by the great beast.

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Colleagues look on as the dragon traverses the stilts, the drummer pounds away in the background.

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And that's all, just one more thing left to say.

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Feb 1, 2011

A few pics from Vung Tau

Here are a few pics from Vung Tau for a long time reader...

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Front Beach at dusk

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Giant crane thingy on a boat

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Sun beating down on the Vung Tau promenade:

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