Jul 22, 2009

New Neighbourhood

In the distance is Phu My Hung, in the foreground the upcoming Riverside Residence project, which as you can see, we will have a pretty good view of from now on.

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"Phu My Hung is not a dirty word Blackadder. Crevice is a dirty word, but Phu My Hung isn't."
Phu My Hung seems for some to have a stigma attached, as if moving there is a cop-out, a wimps option, giving up in a sense to a sterile environment, giving up on the real Vietnam. Well, for us, now a family, it's the only choice. The time for bravado and the (apparent) ego trip of still being 'hardcore' enough to live in the inner city districts is gone. The three and a half years I spent living in Binh Thanh district, an epi-center of all that is potentially frustrating (congested roads, flooding, poor infrastructure) feel like that was my time. Now, times have changed. Our little one needs the space to breath and play, and with our new neighbourhood we have this. We can actually use a pushchair and in the morning or evening stroll around leafy green parks and quiet deserted streets. When I retire at night it is not to the sound of bad karaoke, racing motorbikes or a hawkers call , it it is to the sound of croaking frogs and humming cicadas.

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I suppose our year back in England helped to put a lot into perspective, about the good things and the bad things of living in Vietnam. Quality of life being one. From now on there is no more traffic to worry about, my school is 5 minutes away. No flooding anymore, and the air is comparatively good too. Town is just a 15 minute taxi ride away but all the stresses of its heaving streets are now just a twinkling skyline visible from my chair as I sit typing - that, in itself, is peaceful. PMH has developed now into another busy part of the city and even the main part now is not so attractive to us - busy in it's own way. However, we have managed to find a little corner of the city suitable for what we needed.

In the field opposite the apartments an old man has taken the liberty of setting up his own garden. This is not unusual either, as opportunists have done this in various other spots I have noticed.

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Here, work being done on the lawn out the back, the peaceful tree-lined road and apartments in the background.

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And some shots from the park:

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14 comments:

Anonymous said...

You can always come back to living on the edge after Louisa and her siblings have left the nest.

SaigonNezumi(Kevin) said...

Welcome back to, umm, the West :-)

Honestly, I thought about relocating to Phu My Hung but in the end, I really like the Phu Nhuan area.

Lets grab a beer sometimes...

Anonymous said...

Puzzling choice. Myself, wife and young kid in tow, would not choose to live in this part of town...or is it really a part of Saigon?

Jon Hoff said...

Mel - very true - and I do see the 'old town' becoming very different in 10-20 years as the pressure on HCMC is gradually moved elsewhere.

Anonymous - Puzzling comment.

Anonymous said...

Puzzling in that it defeats the expatriate experience...doing away with the best things an alternative environment has to offer for bland and copy-cat and dysfunctional sgn burbs, only.

Jon Hoff said...

It would take me too long to respond in full...!

Anonymous said...

Just wait until the elevators stop running...

Jon Hoff said...

But that's the thing - they won't. I lived in Chung Cu Mieu Noi in Binh Thanh for 18 months on the 16th floor - the elevators often stopped running there.

Unknown said...

Welcome back!

Jonny said...

Welcome back, Jon :)

I'm still unsure about PMH - I used to mock it senselessly but it certainly seems to have grown up a lot - no longer the ghosttown it once was, for sure.

While working on the Cyclo Challenge this year it was great to be able to collapse on the grass in the afternoon sun with a cool breeze and clean air - although I do still find it a little sterile I think the city is gradually claiming it back as its own. I also think the Hoang Anh Gia Lai bits are quite nice as they feel less polished :)

Anonymous said...

Well I don't think PMH defeats the expat experience so much, the hardened backpacker of De Tham street may not be too impressed with it though. Also PMH are pretty good at keeping their lifts working.

I have pics of your block getting built somewhere deep within in my flickr

Jon Hoff said...

I am not going into the whole 'expat experience' comment. Haha.

Jonny - that's what I noticed when I came to PMH after being away a year - a lot busier, the city will swallow it up soon enough. The city is only 15 mins on my bike anyway. Anyway I spent 3.5 years battling with the traffic, even 1.5 years driving from Binh Thanh to PMH every day! Now that we have a young daughter learning to walk soon and also my school is out here too - it would be stupid not to live out here and take advantage!

Jay - thanks!

Unknown said...

Absolutely - I used to work with street kids and it made me shudder to think of them running around on the streets near the shelter, coming back with war stories of how their bike got crushed between taxis and the like - I think if you have kids and its possible to live somewhere a bit safer with a bit more space it makes perfect sense!

Reminds me, I need to start looking for a flat for when we get back..

Chuck kuhn said...

I'm planning on staying in Vietnam and Hanoi for 60 days or more. Wondering what the rents monthly for apts in this area. Any info will help
Thanks
Check out http://chuckkuhnphotography.blogspot.com
http://chuckkuhnvietnam.blogspot.com